Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Day 5: Pooey! It Pluied! And Other Interruptions.

I know that's bad French, I'm making a pun!

Since my stupid alarm didn't go off this morning, I left a two hours later than I meant to and headed off for the catacombs. But the RER B wasn't running, so I had to reroute my day. Hopefully I can make it to the catacombs before I leave.

Next stop was Les Invalides, for Napoleon's tomb and the Army Museum.




The "back" entrance. The complex was actually built by Louis XIV (yay!) in the late 17th century as a hospital for wounded soldiers. Now it contains museums and the tombs of some of France's notables and war heroes, in particular, NAPOLEON!





Soooo excited for Napoleon!


Look at these cool windows!


In the courtyard.





Napoleon!


The massive dome above Napoleon's tomb, exalting him to the heavens!


When you walk in you see this big circle and a hole!


And you look down onto Napoleon's tomb, which is surrounded by reliefs of his deeds, and his tomb is encircled with the names of his great battles (missing Waterloo, of course. But it does have Moscow there, which is interesting.)


Apparently inside the tomb, Napoleon is resting inside like, 10 different coffins of various materials, metal, wood, etc.


A sculpture of Napoleon as Emperor, his arm outstretched and holding the globe.


At Napoleon's feet rests his son, Napoleon II.


This is apparently Napoleon's original tombstone, that covered his grave for 19 years after he was buried in the south Atlantic island of St. Helena, where he was exiled (for the second time.) the French and British apparently couldn't decide what to write on the tombstone (conflicting emotions, you see) so it just says, "Here lies..."


I thought this was weird.





And the famous portrait of Napoleon by Ingres. It's really an exquisitely fine work of art. They've moved it since last I was here, and now it's rather unceremoniously stuffed in a corner, which was kind of upsetting.


See what I mean?


And wedged next to it are Napoleon's insignia and medals, the ones he's wearing in the Ingres portrait.


Some of Napoleon's things. He traveled around a lot, you know, taking over Europe and all.


Napoleon's horse, Le Vizir, who was exiled with him. Yeah. Creepy.


Awwwwwwwwww. I just LOVE this painting. Can you imagine being Napoleon, being the Emperor of a "New Rome" by the time you're 36, then losing it all and being exiled? I'd be pouty too. And would probably be planning my escape and triumphant return, too.


The front.


Photo bomb!


This part raises up when they need it to.


I had a late lunch of saucisson de Lyon avec des pommes de terre. Yes, those are pistachios in the sausage. It's very similar to bologna.


My first Parisian café! I've been having hot chocolates instead. Coffee in France comes as a shot of espresso, unless you order un café americain, which thins it out with water. Adding milk is a whole other vocabulary of possibilities. Mais pour moi, un café est parfait!

I tried to go to the Rodin Museum which was very close, but it was starting to rain/sprinkle, and part of that museum is outdoors, so I decided to try and come back later.

Next up was a walking tour of the Champs Élysées, pending weather, beginning with a visit up the Arc de Triomphe! I was so excited to do this, since it's definitely a new Parisian experience for me! It's about 250 steps.


The view from the bottom looking up.


The view from the top looking down.


There was a display of other triumphal arches across the world, including my very own local Brooklyn arch!


This guy is an adequate portrayal of the emotions I felt next when I saw...


More stairs. I was only 2/3 there!








And even more! I jest, it wasn't that bad, only scary because it was so slippery, and knowing me, I needed to be careful.


The view from the top was amazing! The weather slowed down to a drizzle, and I got some pretty cool pictures. It would have been nice to see things more clearly, but this was neat, too.


Branches of the etoile. Baron Haussmann, who reorganized and redid all the Parisian streets in the mid 19th century, made all these straight, clean roads with big sidewalks, and planned them out the work perfectly with monuments. A star of streets branch out from the Arc, so from the top it these lit up runways make you feel like you're being targeted!


The Champs élysées through the top of the Arc.





The golden dome of Les Invalides, where I was earlier, and the ugly Montparnasse tower behind. That place is supposed to have the BEST views. Probably because you can't see the Montparnasse Tower when you're standing on it.


Sacre Coeur on the Butte de Montmartre! That's my neighborhood!


The Eiffel Tower was hazy and glowing in the misty rain.





The arc from the bottom.





The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, from WWI, with the eternal flame. This was the first eternal flame started in Western and Eastern Europe since the flame of the Vestal Virgins was extinguished! I was there at 6:30, when they rekindle the flame and place new flowers everyday.


This time a huge crowd of children where there, each with a little bouquet. Friday is Armistice Day, and President Sarkosy will lay a wreath on the tomb... I'll be at Disneyland. but I will be here for Remembrance Sunday!





My triumphant hat.


I started to do my Champs Élysées walk, since the rain seemed to have stopped. I passed by these crystal stairs.


The trees all have strings of silver discs, which twist and twirl and sparkle and shimmer, reflecting the light. I thought it was a really clever decoration, since they look like electric lights.


I stopped at the super fancy, and most profitable McDonalds in the WORLD for some pomme frites, which came with pomme frites sauce. C'est lol.


I also got the Gare du Nord!

But sadly, once I looked up from my reading, the rain was back to pouring, so I decided to go back to my hotel. So that's three things that got canceled today, and I hope to be able to find time to make them up.

I'm very excited about tomorrow, which should feature the Ile de la Cité!

4 comments:

  1. I love all the details you share with us!!!

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  2. But you've been up the stairs to the top of l'Arc de Triomphe before. Francoise came along more slowly, but we all made it up there. Fabulous view! Sorry for all the pluie, though.

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  3. Les Invalides is where the bee pin you wore on your coat came from.

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  4. I always thought that Napoleon was trying to compensate for something he, uh, lacks, with that massive tomb. Like when little guys drive big trucks.. so strange, so insecure!

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