Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Prague: Have You Got the Time?

Good morning!
Today we took a stroll back in time...the the dramatic centerpieces of Prague, the Old Town Square.
Marionettes on the way to the square.
There it is! All set up with a Christmas Market. The Old Town Square has been a market square ever since the 11th century.


The Jan Hus Memorial. In a nutshell, Jan Hus was a precursor to Martin Luther, condemning Church corruption in the late 14th century (about 100 years before Luther.) Luther was burned at the stake as a heretic, but paved the way for Martin Luther and the Reformation and Counter Reformation.
Tyn Church, which became the leading church of the Hussites for 200 years. (But it's Catholic again!)
The famous Astronomical Clock on Old Town Hall! Every hour there is a little show, but today we just kept missing it! It's pretty complicated, involving revolving discs, celestial symbols, multiple hands, Bohemian time, modern time, sunrise, sunsets, zodiacs, saint's names for each day and all kinds of other things to look at.
27 white crosses by Old Town Hall mark the spot where 27 Protestants were beheaded in 1621 after rebelling against the Catholic Habsburgs.
On a happier note, a cute little band was jamming in the square!


The Church of St. Nicolas, currently a Hussite church. 
                                                
The chandelier inside the Church of St. Nicholas. 

Tyn Church to the left and the Old Town Hall to the right.


The Church of St. James. Originally a Gothic church, the inside got plastered with baroque decorations later on and it looks a little weird. I couldn't take pictures inside. The church houses the bejeweled MAdonna Pietatis, one of Prague's most venerated treasures. Above the door to the church, there is a shriveled old severed arm hanging from a chain! According to legend, a theif attempted to rob the Madonna Pietatis from the altar, but his hand was frozen the moment he touched the statue. The monks had to cut off his arm to get the hand to let go. It now hangs in the church as a warning!

Come on. A group of little kids singing Christmas songs in Czech? Unbelievably precious. I love to hear children singing!
We went to the Mucha Museum which was really very, very good. I had a blast, and got some great souvenirs!
The Powder Tower again!
This evening we had tickets to a concert at the Municipal House. Corelli, Pachelbel, Mozart and Vivaldi performed by the Prague Royal Orchestra.


It was a good, but not great performance, and definitley overpriced. But it was very nice to listen to some lovely classic pieces in the gorgeous Art Nouveau Semanta Hall at the Municipal House.
Back at the Old Town Square at night. Gorgeous!



Mike wanted to walk down this high end shopping street with like, Dolce and Gabbana and Rolex, etc. He liked to look at all the fancy cars parked on the street. I saw this leather bag, which I pretty sure is for carrying fancy boots, and I scoffed at the frivolity of such an item, but to each his own!
Mike trying to get in the little door at the base of the Astronomical Clock.
Aaaaaand we missed the hourly show for the third time. Ack!

Goodnight!

Monday, December 3, 2012

Prague: A Walk in the Twilight

Because I'm determined not to need a vacation from my vacation, I made sure I had enough time in Prague to really take things slow, to focus on really wandering around, and take my time seeing the big stuff. Plus, it's really cold here, and Mike has to limit his outdoor exposure! That said, this morning was luxuriously lazy. I worked on my blogs and got caught up a bit, then wandered around the hotel for a while before heading over to Wenceslas Square in the New Town for a walking tour. 

Wenceslas Square has been witness to some of the most major events in modern Czech history. The creation of the Czechoslovak state was celebrated here in 1981, in 1989, more than 300,000 Czechs and Slovaks gathered here to claim their freedom from the Soviets. 
 This is the National Museum, which is currently closed for renovation. But one of the most important historical features of this building is on the columns decorating the front. Can you see the light colored patches? Those are where Soviet bullets hit during the crackdown against the 1968 Prague spring uprising. But instead of hiding the bullet holes, like the communists wanted, the masons doing the repairs mismatched it on purpose to leave a reminder.
 The statue of "good king" Wenceslas (the song in perpetually stuck in my mind now), the 10th century Duke of Bohemia, who was an unusually educated, benevolent ruler who was later canonized.

 A memorial to victims of communism. Jan Palach set himself on fire on the steps of the National Museum in an act of self-immolation, and died a few days later. On the 20th anniversary of his death, huge demonstrations took place in this square, and 10 months later, the Czech communist government was overthrown.
 I'm not entirely sure what this was, some kind of noodle, bacon sauerkraut smorgasbord of ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.

 A controversial statue called "Wenceslas Riding and Upside-Down Horse" by David Černy.
 An old Tesla Radio glass window.
 A Franciscan garden.








 The Dancing House, aka "Fred and Ginger." Designed by Frank Gehry!

 Juan Diego Flórez!
The glassy building to the right of the National Theatre is the Nová Scéna, or the New National Theatre. It's old and new side by side!

More wanderings tomorrow. For tonight, I bid you all adieu!